Terms

Sewing terms or vocabulary are key to becoming a successful sewist! Though names can be confusing and challenging, especially when you are unsure of their definition. It is helpful to know the explanations of a particular skill or technique.

First, I will help you define standard terms that you will see in most patterns, tutorials, or classes. It is common for a new dressmaker to feel overwhelmed by all the information. I will break it down into parts; this will help ease you into the plethora of words and common phrases.

This post will go over the most basic terms. I will post more in-depth mini-posts as we make this journey into the world of sewing!

Reference Books for Sewing Terms

First, when you start a new craft or hobby, you are unsure what the instructions mean. Regarding patterns, tutorials, or what a teacher is trying to explain, do your research first. This will help you retain the information you are learning.

The books below will help you get through some of those tight spots. A few of my favorite books to have on hand when sewing. Perfect for referring back to when you cannot figure out what to do next.

If books are not your style, Needle, Ink, and Thread has a fantastic sewing group on Facebook. It is called “Needle, Ink and Thread, All things crafty,” where you can ask another seamster for help.

How-To Speak Fluent Sewing by Christine Haynes – Phenomenal book! I recommend this to all of my sewing students. Quickly find definitions and examples for all the different vocabulary. This book is a must-have in your sewing library; it is indispensable.  As you can tell from the photo, I consistently refer back to this book.

Elementary Sewing Skills by Carolyn N.K. Denham; Merchant & Mills – An excellent technique book if you decide to get into garment sewing. This book provides in-depth information, with easy-to-follow photos, on basic techniques for pressing, seams, finishing, and fit. It’s a great addition to your library as well.

Design-It-Yourself Clothes: Patternmaking Simplified by Cal Patch is the perfect book to get your feet wet in creating patterns that fit your measurements. These are staple garments that are flattering and easy to sew. You can build your skills with each project. Also, expand your knowledge of sewing clothes.

Create The Perfect Fit by Joi Mahon – A book for those looking to alter their clothing or patterns. This book will walk you through crotch ease, sloped shoulders, and more. It helps you get that perfect fit with a few simple changes.

Sewing In A Straight Line by Brett Bara – Filled with smooth, straight stitching-only projects. These projects help you build confidence with your stitches. The fun projects include skirts, curtains, quilts, pillows, and fabric folders.

Below are a few more technical books. They are fantastic to have on your bookshelf, and we will go into more depth on these books later in this series.

Sewing 101: Basics – Terms to Know

Sewing Terms are easy to learn and needed when explaining a succession issue in a project. The easiest way to get help from online groups or others who sew in your community is to know the specific terms. That way, you can explain precisely why you are requesting support.

Seam: When two or more pieces of fabric are sewn together, a suture is created.

Stitch Length: The length of a stitch – from where it begins to where it ends. Usually measured in millimeters.  The most common stitch length is between 2.5 and 3.0.

Seam Allowance – Distance from the fabric’s raw edge to the needle’s entry point.  This allowance will vary between patterns; please check the pattern for this measurement.

Stitch Width: The width of a stitch from side to side of the center point. Depending on your machine model, this can also change the needle position in straight-stitch mode.

Backstitch: Reversing over a straight stitch by a few stitches provides a backstitch, sometimes called a lockstitch.

Basting Stitch: A straight stitch with a long stitch length of 4.0 or higher. Usually, this stitch does not include a backstitch.

Pattern Terms

Stay-Stitching: A straight stitch of regular or slightly shorter stitch length, sewn inside the seam allowance around the curve of a cut pattern piece.

Edge Stitching: A straight stitch sewn very close to the finished edge of the fabric.

Top Stitching:  Topstitching is a straight stitch sewn on the right side of the fabric, most often at seams or hems.

Understitch: A straight stitch joins the seam allowance of a seam to the same seam’s lining or facing, just inside the original stitching.

Fabric Terms

Selvage -Edge on either side of the woven or flat-knitted fabric so finished as to prevent fraying. Different from the body of the material, often in a small tape effect.

Grain or Grainline (Warp) – Threads that run the length of the fabric.  There is little to no stretch in woven, less stretch in a two-way knit, and the grainline is also parallel to the selvage edge.

Cross Grain (Weft) – Threads that run the width of the fabric. More stretch than the grain, more minor than the bias, and always perpendicular to the selvage edge.

Bias: The 45-degree angle that runs diagonally across a piece of fabric, and this will have the MOST stretch of a woven fabric.

Off Grain – When the threads of the warp and weft are not sitting perfectly perpendicular to each other, the fabric will twist while you wear it.

Right Side (RS) – This right side of the fabric is shown and worn on the outside of the finished project. **Usually, the printed side of the material.

Wrong Side (WS) – The underside, which is on the inside of your finished projects.

Nap: The texture left on pile fabrics.

Pile: The raised fibers above the face of the woven textile.

Stitch In The Ditch:  A straight stitch that lands in the groove where two seams meet on the right side of a project.

Conclusion

I know this is a lot of terminology. These are the most common words to use in an informal hearing. When taking a class in real life, online, or through a book, you must know what the teacher or author is explaining. 

If your knowledge of foundation techniques or vocabulary is strong, the sewing part will become easier. Your confidence will soar, I promise!

I always say, “No matter how much we already know, we can still learn something new”. Open a book, visit a website, read a blog, or take a beginner-level class. Even if you think your skill is higher, I bet you will still learn a new little tip or way to do something.

Because you will learn a tip or trick or two, there is something to be said for returning to the basics now and then. It’s refreshing.

XOXO  ~ Jesy

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