Top sewing mistakes for new sewists

Sewing is new, it’s exciting, and we get a sense of accomplishment with each finished project.  With this excitement, we sometimes forget basic sewing rules. Because we are having so much fun, that is ok as long as it doesn’t hinder your sewing.

The easiest way to end up not liking sewing is to make a few mistakes on sewing projects, and then, when you feel defeated, you’re no longer having fun. I don’t want that for you, so I put together a list of basic sewing mistakes and how to combat them!

I will go over some examples of issues that new sewists encounter. Hopefully, this list will help you not be afraid to jump in and sew in your sewing journey. Make your mistakes and LEARN from them.

sewing mistakes – Choosing something too complicated for first projects

When starting your sewing journey, make sure you choose projects that are within your wheelhouse—the fewer the sewing pieces, the less likely you are to get confused or upset. Start simple, just like in school; you can’t do algebra before basic math, so don’t set yourself up to be defeated.

Start with straight-line sewing projects with six pieces or fewer. Make at least three of the same project. You will learn new techniques with each project, so give yourself some practice space. Great starter projects include tote bags, pillows, pillowcases, business card holders, tissue holders, coasters, and simple bags.

Once you are confident with the straight line, gradually add soft curves, etc. If you think of sewing as a skill and not a “hobby,” you will see that learning is as simple as it was in elementary school. Build your techniques and add on as you master them. The creative side of sewing is choosing your fabrics, trims, and textures; anyone can learn the skills to sew!

Not buying enough fabric for the project

This common issue is that the material isn’t cheap, so we try to skate by with the least amount possible. We will not know how long a project will take because we haven’t learned enough about sewing to calculate the required materials accurately.  Having experience with a few projects will help you understand how to add up the costs you will need.

If you are not sure how much to buy, reach out to someone you know who sews to help or ask the person at the shop where you buy your fabric. Make sure to have your project pattern or measurements for the project you want to sew.

I always buy at least a half-yard more than I need for any project. I mess up on cutting. Then I have some wiggle room. Also, if I don’t need it for the sewing project, I have a little bit to start my sewing stash. You can do a lot with a half-yard of fabric.

Also, don’t forget about thrift stores! Bedsheets that aren’t super expensive have plenty of fabric and are perfect for practicing. Use your best material on the second or third make of that project. The first time you do anything, you are going to be learning, and you don’t want to mess up expensive fabric.

Using the wrong fabric for the sew

The BIGGEST issue I see is that suitable material is so important! Yes, that other fabric might be the best color or texture; if it is not on the instructions as a fabric you can use, don’t; you will thank me later. Especially if you are new to sewing, stick with the suggested material from the project.

All patterns will give you a fabric suggestion for the project.  The more you sew with other types of fabrics, the more you will learn the little quirks of each kind. An excellent book for fabric references is Fabric A to Z by Dana Willard. This book is full of great information for the fabrics on the market. A great way to start understanding the diversity of material.

Choosing the wrong pattern size (garment sewing)

If you are sewing clothing, please, please, please take your measurements each time. Read the back of the pattern envelope and choose your size based on your measurements. Pattern sizes (the big box stores, McCall’s, Simplicity, Burda, Vogue, etc.) are standardized. You should be the same size across all brands using your measurements. For indie patterns, you will need to find your size each time.

Most indie designers use their body measurements to make the pattern. Also, making a wearable muslin is a great way to know how the design will fit. Also, do an Instagram search using the pattern’s hashtag to see what others have made!

*PRO TIP* Sewing patterns are not sized like department store clothing; just because your size X at XYZ does not mean you make that size when using a pattern. Also, most people do not fall into one size for the pattern. Sewing garments is a bit harder than most, but once you understand how to grade and fit patterns, it’s so much easier. Experience comes with practice, so keep at it. Even if it’s a fail, you will still learn something!

Laying out the pattern pieces incorrectly

All patterns come with layout instructions; you can deviate from them; however, you will most likely want to follow them if you are new to sewing. The reason is that you will get the most out of your fabric if you follow the layout. That part of the pattern (especially in significant box patterns) is vital to how much material you will need!

As you make more and gain experience with pattern layouts, you can change it up to suit you, but if you want success every time, use the arrangement that they provide.

Cutting inaccurately

When cutting pattern pieces out, you want to be as precise as possible (especially in garment sewing and quilting). There is some wiggle room when working with accessories and home decor, but you mostly want to try hard to follow the pattern or an adjusted/modified version as closely as possible. Find cutting practice sheets online and practice if you are not great at cutting.

Also, a good pair of sewing scissors or a rotary cutter could be helpful for your cuts!

Using the wrong thread or needle, or changing your sewing machine needle infrequently.

Using the right sewing needle for your fabric and thread will help. There are different sizes and types of sewing needles to use. For instance, if you have a lightweight ITY Knit, you don’t want to use a size 16 denim needle. It will eat up your fabric. If you are not familiar with the different types or are not sure which one to use for your material, again, Fabrics A to Z by Dana Willard would be an excellent book for your reference library, as it breaks down that information for you.

You can also check out the different needle brands’ websites to learn about the needles and why to change them.

Sewing needles get dull. It would help if you changed them every 5-8 hours of sewing. You can damage your fabric or even your machine if bent or broken. Another rule of thumb is that if you are not sure when your needle was last changed, change it.

Not pre-washing your fabric

A biggie when making items that will need to be washed, like garments and bags. You want to pre-wash to remove the sizing from the fabric; this chemical helps keep the material nice and crisp while it sits on the shelf. Once it’s washed out, the fabric will shrink, and this will cause issues with any garments (too small after fitting great), and bags that have interfacing will get slightly “bumpy” due to the interfacing not shrinking, but the fabric did.

Prep

When quilting, you do not want to pre-wash your fabric; you want it stiff for piecing. Then you will also get a sizeable, wrinkly texture on your quilt after it’s all together, which is so lovely!

Using the wrong seam allowance or not using seam allowance at all

Seam allowance is so important in sewing. Seam allowance is the distance of fabric from the needle to the raw edge. It’s different for all projects. This added measurement ensures that all the pieces fit together and match up. Make sure to read your instructions before sewing to see the allowance for the specific project.

Mainly, it goes: 5/8 inch for garments (sometimes 1/2 inch or 3/8th inch if using indie patterns).

1/2 inch for home decor and accessories.

And typically 1/4 inch for quilting.

Read through all the instructions as the seam allowance is not always the same for every pattern.  One tip is to highlight any changes or different seam allowances during construction. Sometimes the instructions will tell you to sew something with a smaller or larger seam allowance during the construction of a specific part.

At the end of all

We have only touched on a few of the most common issues for new sewists. I know this is also A LOT of information. Please don’t let sewing deter you; use this as a helpful guide to getting the best sew each time. There are rules and techniques in sewing that are critical and need to be followed.

However, if you find a way that works for you and you get the same outcome, by all means, use your method.

You are supposed to have fun and enjoy sewing. I hope this helps you past some of those minor issues that can make or break it.